NUNN IN THE OVEN

Chef Steve Chiappetti makes a great addition to the mathematical Albert

Mon. March 6, 2023 12:00 AM
by Jerry Nunn

The creative team at the Albert Chicago, 228 East Ontario Street, was incredibly smart to hire Steve Chiappetti for the space inspired by a genius. The physicist Albert Einstein became the muse for Hotel EMC2 with its brainy and eclectic take on art, so the attached restaurant follows that vision in many ways for the modern world. It doesn't take a scientist to determine that the Albert has something special for everyone that enters through revolving door.

For example take the Noethern Lights, named after Emmy Noether, a German mathematician who Einstein admired. The concoction combines vodka, elderflower, lemon and chamomile, all to lighten your mood with each sip.

If you are still thirsty then try on the Rhuby Slippers with gin, rhubarb liqueur and Aperol before heading down the Yellow Brick Road.

For appetizers order the smoked duck accompanied by a mango and black truffle relish or the seared ahi tuna with Calabrian chili aioli.

Chiappetti explained the polenta board is one of his favorite dishes on the menu and was inspired by his Italian background. This captivating cornmeal dish is presented on a wooden cutting board with two different sauces each day to keep things spontaneous and fresh. The night I was there one sauce was made from braised mushrooms and the other with a pesto base.

The presentation is kept simple for the creamy three-cheese ravioli bathed in a white truffle cream sauce and drizzled with a marsala glaze.

The sides are something special so don't sleep on the crispy Brussels sprouts or honey mint glazed baby carrots both made to accompany the various steaks offered on the menu, such as the incredible 24-ounce bone-in ribeye.

For dessert, the best could possibly be saved for last with the pistachio-covered Olive Oil Cake or the Affogato Bomb, made with flourless cake drenched in caramel sauce. This coffee-based dessert gives Americans a chance to learn about this Italian standard while experiencing an explosion of flavor!

Nunn in the Oven reviewed the Albert in the past, but things have been revamped since the last visit in 2019: https://chicago.gopride.com/entertainment/column/index.cfm/col/2689

Chiappetti is quickly creating another legacy with his latest eatery thanks to intelligent changes that would make Einstein proud. This renowned chef has done his homework and encourages his staff to bring their unique personalities to each table. That shows in the overall smooth execution of his Calabrian cuisine.

This Albert has the right chemistry to shake up Streeterville in 2023!

Book your table periodically throughout the year at theAlbertChicago.com.